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A Guide to History Through the Ages Along the North Wessex Downs

Along the way you’ll enter medieval castles, historic inns and a watermill turned theatre. Contrast prehistoric mysteries with marvels of the Industrial Revolution, all amid the high chalk plateaus and wandering river valleys of the North Wessex Downs. If you like a bit of everything when it comes to history, preferring to peer in at one century then dash off to investigate another, this is the itinerary for you. In 3 days you’ll get an easy introduction to the people and places of this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty through time...

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Day 1 

Morning 
Today is a day of castles. Start your historical odyssey in style by visiting Highclere Castle. The Downton Abbey set is less than 2 hours from central London by car or coach. Although you’ll associate Highclere with the glittering 1920s glamour featured in the TV series, the estate’s real history extends as far back as 749 when Bishop William of Wykeham constructed a medieval palace on the site.

Since then the building and grounds have been reimagined by some remarkable people - including landscaping genius Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown in the 1770s and architect Sir Charles Barry, designer of the Houses of Parliament, in the 1840s. During WWI it was even converted into a hospital for wounded soldiers. Your visit will bring all this and much more to life. Good to know: Highclere is only open to the public seasonally and for special events - see the website for tickets.
Did you know? A new Downton Abbey film has been announced, to be released in autumn 2019.

Afternoon 
Afterwards, make your way to Donnington Castle. The 14th-century castle was severely damaged in the English Civil War. Although only earthworks and a gatehouse remain, it was once considered very luxurious - so luxurious that on separate occasions it hosted both King Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth. Did you know? Thomas Chaucer, son of famous poet Geoffrey Chaucer, once lived here. 

Or, stay close to Highclere, and take a walk up Beacon Hill where you can admire Donnington Castle from on high. It’s a strenuous but short hike up to the hill fort, but the fantastic views are well worth it and you may even be joined by red kites and skylarks. Plus you’ll get to see Lord Carnarvon’s burial place - the former Highclere Castle resident is legendary for his role in the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb. 

Check into your hotel. Nearby Donnington Grove Hotel is a gothic mansion with an intriguing past. It was once home to Daisy Fellowes, a 1930s fashion icon, who spent much time renovating the property in her singular style. She was well-known for her high society antics, love of ludicrously expensive jewels and for inspiring the colour Shocking Pink.

Evening
Continue the drama with dinner and a show at The Watermill Theatre in Bagnor, just a 10-minute drive from Newbury in an idyllic rural setting. Built in 1830 as a working corn and then paper mill, it was repurposed in the 1960s and is now a highly respected theatre. Recent performances have ranged from historical satire to modern takes on Charlotte Brontë classics.
Good to know: You can book a casual pre-show buffet or a 3-course post-show meal.

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Day 2 

Morning 
There’s a lot to fit in today - about 5,000 years in fact. The North Wessex Downs is positively packed with prehistoric sites, but luckily many of the major ones are situated close together. (If you’re tempted to delve into motoring history, by the way, consider hiring one of Vintage Classics’ Aston Martins or Jaguar E-Types to navigate between them). 

You could head straight for the iconic stones of Stonehenge. Or have a wander round Avebury, part of the same World Heritage Site, where you’ll find the largest prehistoric stone circle in the world. And there’s heaps of burial mounds to see… Enter the cavernous tomb at West Kennet Long Barrow or come up with your own theories about Silbury Hill - no evidence of burials has ever been found within, leaving its purpose curiously unexplained. Did you know? Victorian visitors to Stonehenge hired chisels to chip off bits of the sacred stones as souvenirs. Thankfully the stones are now very well protected - and there’s a wonderful gift shop selling much less destructive treasures. 

Afternoon 
Pick a historic town to make your base for the night - Marlborough or Hungerford. Both were coaching towns along the Great West Road, with the Halfway Inn (between Newbury and Hungerford) offering stagecoach passengers a rest stop halfway between London and Bath. 

Enjoy a leisurely afternoon rummaging through antique shops and stopping for afternoon tea. The Tutti Pole in Hungerford does fabulous luxury afternoon teas including mini meringues and even a little bottle of prosecco if you fancy some sparkles. A short stroll from the café brings you to Hungerford Common where General Eisenhower reviewed massed allied troops in 1944.  Today you can walk over prehistoric and medieval field boundaries, explore wartime fortifications or just enjoy the lovely views across the Kennet Valley and towards the Berkshire Downs. You could also stop in at The Merchant’s House in Marlborough. This handsome 17th-century home of wealthy silk merchant Thomas Bayly stands on one of the widest High Streets in England.

Did you know? Hungerford is the only place in England that still marks the medieval Hocktide festival. It’s evolved over the years, but these days the week-long festival features lots of feasting, ale-tasting and the donation of oranges in exchange for kisses. Tutti Day, the second Tuesday after Easter Sunday, is the main event, with the Tutti Men’s costumed parade carrying Tutti poles decorated with flowers down the High Street. Find out more here.

Evening 
Settle in for dinner and drinks at a nice historic inn. Both Marlborough and Hungerford have some excellent options. While in Inkpen, just outside Hungerford, you’ll find The Crown & Garter. At this 17th-century restaurant with rooms you can tuck into a hearty fireside dinner before retiring to your beautifully refurbished courtyard room. 

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Day 3 

Morning 
This morning, visit Wiltshire Heritage Museum in Devizes - it’ll help put some of what you’ve seen over the past couple of days into context. You’ll behold gold from the time of Stonehenge, discover the origins of the Kingdom of Wessex and learn what Devizes would have been like in Georgian times. The Kennet and Avon Canal Museum is another great option if you’d like to see some intriguing artefacts from the canal. Plus there’s the lovely Wharf Tea Rooms - treat yourself to a marshmallow-topped hot chocolate.

Afternoon 
Next stop: Wadworth Brewery. Take a guided tour to find out more about its Victorian heritage and learn about the shire horses that still make local deliveries just as they did back then. You’ll also get to see where artists paint the brewery’s distinctive hand-painted pub signs and enjoy a tutored sampling of some of their ales (6X is a favourite). Good to know: They serve delicious hot pies, perfect for lunch, at the Harness Room Bar in the Visitor Centre.

Afterwards, head out into the countryside for a refreshing stroll in the Vale of Pewsey. The Vale Trail takes in some industrial history hotspots including Crofton Beam Engines, the Kennet and Avon Canal and Wilton Windmill. While The Wansdyke Path offers big skies and spectacular views from the rolling chalk downs of one of the North Wessex Downs’ 8 white horses, a National Nature Reserve and a whole series of prehistoric hill forts.

Evening 
After such a history-packed final day on the Great West Way, you’ll want somewhere comfy to spend the evening. Two excellent choices include Troutbeck Guest House, Pewsey, a boutique B&B with a foodie pub, the Red Lion Freehouse, just across the road, and Manor Farm - a Grade II-listed farmhouse in the village of Collingbourne Kingston, with dreamy vistas of the North Wessex Downs to wake up to.